Butch Style


Butch Clothing Company Fittings
November 12, 2010, 10:24 am
Filed under: clothing | Tags: ,

Maybe you remember the Butch Clothing Company from an interview with the owner a while back? Well, if you got excited about it like I did and then realized that you live somewhere on the west side of the Atlantic, I’ve got good news for you. They’ll be in NYC from January 21 thru the 25th holding fittings and consultations. For more infoor to sign yourself right up, email shaz@thebutchclothingcompany.com.

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How to Fit a Suit
September 2, 2010, 9:58 am
Filed under: articles, clothing | Tags: , , ,

The suit is classic and timeless, and a well-fitting suit can help you feel your best and give you confidence in your appearance. It can also be a necessity for a butch working in a formal office setting or going to a friend’s wedding. Unfortunately, buying a suit can be especially difficult for us butches. Some of us have to deal with large chests and wide hips that suit designers did not have in mind. And most of us never had the experience of wearing a suit growing up so it’s hard to know where to even begin. I’ve done some research to come up with a guide for those buying their first suit, and I’m hoping it will help.

To get a general idea for your size, you can measure yourself. Alternately, when you hit the store – if you are comfortable with it – the salesperson will be able to measure you and suggest suits for your body type. There are many different cuts, especially in the jacket – box-shaped, tapering, hourglass, slim, wide, etc – so try on as many as you can get your hands on. As for fabric, you probably want to look at wool for your first suit. Worsted wool, which is midweight and very durable, is a classic suit choice and good for most climates. Heavier wool is good for winter but won’t make a year-round suit. Linen is nice in the summer or in warmer climates, but it wrinkles easily.

You might be lucky enough to find a suit that fits you perfectly, but more than likely you won’t. This is where the tailor comes in – and this is an expected part of buying a suit. A lot of places that sell suits will have an in-house tailor or one that visits regularly. If they don’t, ask them (or friends!) for recommendations or check out DapperQ’s map to find a queer-friendly tailor near you. Some aspects of your suit’s fit are easy – and cheap – to alter, and some are near impossible. Here are some things that you want to look for when trying on a suit, and how easy they might be to alter if they’re not perfect.

Length

The jacket itself should be long enough to cover your butt when your arms are relaxed, but you should be able to grab the bottom edge with your fingers. Alternately, you can measure the length to one inch below your crotch – your actual crotch, not that of your pants. The sleeves should just cover your wristbone. A too-long jacket in either area is one of the easiest things for a tailor to fix. It’s also possible, in some cases, to lengthen a jacket’s hem, assuming that there is enough fabric in the existing hem and that the jacket does not have rounded corners.

Shoulders

The jacket’s shoulders should sit flat and fit your shoulder without extending beyond it. They should also not be too snug – you shouldn’t feel tightness or pulling on your upper arms. When your arms are relaxed, your upper arm should be directly in the center of the sleeve. If it is pushing on the front, back, or outside of the sleeve you will get wrinkles. Shoulder width is very difficult and intensive to change, so this is one of the top priorities in buying a suit off the rack. Likewise, the way your arm hangs in the sleeve is exceptionally difficult to alter. Some suits have shoulder pads and some don’t – it’s entirely a matter of personal preference. Shoulder pads can help you look more masculine, if that’s what you’re after. But don’t go overboard.

Torso

You should be able to button the front buttons easily and without creasing the suit in the back or around the buttons. If the lapels pull open when the suit is buttoned, it’s too small around your torso. On the other hand, you don’t want it too loose – look for no more than 3 inches (or a clenched fist) between the top button and your torso. You also don’t want a jacket that’s stretched over your butt. If you’re trying on a jacket with no vents and it’s too tight in the butt region, try on a jacket with a vent or two. The fit around the torso can be altered – to an extent. A competent tailor will be able to bring in the waist or make the entire body slimmer.

Collar

The back of the collar should end at the middle of your neck and shouldn’t pull away from the back of your neck. If you find excess fabric below the back of the collar, a tailor can pull this up under the collar.

Trousers

Generally, you want your trousers to be comfortable. They should fit like any other pair of pants around the waist. They should fit snugly but fall straight down with no creasing. The bottom of the trouser should fall on your shoe with a slight break. Pants are, again, easy to shorten and possible to lengthen depending on the availability of extra fabric in the hem.  Most suit pants have cuffs around 1″, but you can wear the pants sans-cuff as well.

Fit

You should be able to move around easily in your suit. Swing your arms around. Crouch down, sit on a chair. Take a look at the suit in all positions, and make sure you can stick your arm out enough to shake someone’s hand without the jacket sleeve creeping up to your bicep.



The Butch Clothing Company: Stylish Suits for Every Butch
June 30, 2010, 10:03 am
Filed under: articles | Tags: , , , ,
Photograph: Christian Sinibaldi for the Guardian

If you haven’t already heard, the holy grail of butch fashion just opened up in England. Shaz Riley, a self-identified butch woman and newcomer to the fashion scene, recently started a company catering to the clothing needs of her butch sisters. The Butch Clothing Company, based in Brighton, makes classic men’s suits, shirts, and trousers, but cuts them to fit a woman’s body – specifically, each client’s body.

 

I had the chance to interview Shaz about her new business. She talked to me about her current and future goals, inspirations, and even how those of us not lucky enough to live in Brighton might get our hands on a custom-made suit.

 

How long have you been working in fashion, and what got you involved?
I have only been in the fashion industry for this past 12 months. The idea for the company and consequent training and company formation was born from the vision I had had for many years to create a bespoke clothing company for Butch women. The House of Butch we like to say!

 

How did you get the idea to start the Butch Clothing Company?
The idea was purely born from my own experience. I know, being a butch all my life, how difficult it is to safely, enjoyably and successfully purchase a suit that fits perfectly.

 

What makes your clothing unique?
We have taken classic male fashions, styles and designs and stayed true to them, because that’s what Butch women want As I always say, we aren’t reinventing the wheel. But through a process of deconstruction and then reconstruction we have worked out how to fit a suit perfectly to any butch women no matter their height or weight.

 

How has the response been, from the lesbian community and otherwise?
Well there have been a couple of negative – dare I say rude – comments about me (which I find actually very amusing), but I have to say the rest of the world has embraced the idea , the company and me. As a company we are thrilled and excited by the positive responses from every corner of the globe, from well wishers and perspective buyers.

 

What are your future plans and goals for your company?
We hope to continue to grow as a global company while remaining  committed to our responsible business practice and our partnership with our ethical manufacturer. We are committed to developing a world wide client database. As for  our designs, we will consistently offer stylish, classic bespoke suits of the highest quality. And who knows, we may even consider a casual range for The BCC brand. Wouldn’t that be cool!

 

How would you describe your personal style?
I have many styles from casual to formal. I have an eclectic taste. I have however, having entered into a very loving relationship and given up smoking in the last 2.5 years put on considerable weight which I am currently in the process of dropping. Ask me the same question in 6 months!

 

Is there any hope of buying your clothing for women not in the UK?
Yes, we are very happy to consider overseas clients. What we intend to do is catalogue the interest around the world and try and map out where the main interest is. In the USA, for example, we have alot of interest in New York. So when we have a list of clients stateside in NY or willing to travel there, we will arrange a consultation room and offer the same service we do in Brighton. Clients will pre book an appointment, and we will charge an upfront reservation fee to ensure the clients will keep their appointments. Then we will meet; discuss the clients design; choose the fabrics, linings and detailing; and then measure up for the suit. When the suit is ready we will return for the final fitting.